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Exploring South Africa

South Africa is one of the most geographically varied countries of the African continent, comprising territory that ranges from the rolling, fertile plains of the highveld and the wide open savanna of the Eastern Transvaal to the Kalahari desert and the peaks of the Drakensberg Mountains. While all of its diverse regions offer ample opportunities for adventure travel, the focus in South Africa–as in much of sub-Saharan Africa–is the safari. In addition to possessing two of the world’s most renowned wildlife reserves, the Kruger and the Kalahari Gemsbok National Parks, the country contains over a dozen smaller regional parks and reserves. In addition, with its excellent road and rail systems, its abundance of top-rated accommodations, and its bountiful farmlands and vineyards, South Africa allows visitors ample opportunity for more luxurious comfort along with adventuresome excitement.

Location, Geography, & Climate

South Africa is located, as one might expect, on the southern tip of Africa. It is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean on the west, the Indian Ocean on the south and east. Along its northern border, from west to east, lie Namibia, Botswana, and Zimbabwe, and to the northeast are Mozambique and Swaziland. Wholly-enclosed by South Africa, and situated in its eastern central plain, is the independent kingdom of Lesotho.

Almost all of South Africa’s 472,000 square miles (1.2 million sq. km.) lie below the Tropic of Capricorn, and the country is geographically composed of three primary regions: an expansive central plateau, a nearly continuous escarpment of mountain ranges that ring the plateau on the west, south, and east, and a narrow strip of low-lying land along the coast. Most of the central plateau (and most of the country) consists of high (4,000-6,000 ft/1,220-1,830 m), rolling grassland known as highveld. The highest points of the mountainous escarpment are found in the stunning Drakensberg (dragon’s back) Mountains, where the tips of dragon’s back can exceed heights of 10,000 ft (3,050 m).

In the northwest, South Africa’s Kalahari Gemsbok National Park, one of the continent’s largest game reserves, extends into the red sands and scrub grasslands of the great Kalahari Desert. In the northeast, the highveld plateau descends to the Bushveld and Limpopo River basins. The Bushveld comprises South Africa’s extensive savanna, in which is found the country’s marvelously rich and diverse game reserve, the world-renowned Kruger National Park.

Although South Africa’s climate varies considerably across its various regions and environments, temperatures remain comfortable throughout the year. The best time to visit for safari is between May to August, when there is less rain and much less dense vegetation, making animal sightings far more frequent.

History & People

South Africa’s population of forty million is three-quarters black (African) and about 15% white (European), with the remaining 10% comprised of people of mixed white, Malayan, and black descent and people of Asian (mostly Indian) descent. The African majority is composed of many different ethnic groups, the largest of which are Zulu, Xhosa, Tswana, and Bapedi. Until very recently, the country’s racial divisions were harshly enforced as part of the government’s official policy of Apartheid, or apartness. Although the government began to dismantle apartheid in 1989 after prolonged resistance, protest, and international economic sanctions, racial inequality remains pronounced in South Africa.

Adventure

South Africa is a very large and extraordinarily varied land, offering almost unlimited opportunities for adventure travel of all sorts–from diving and whitewater rafting to mountain-climbing and trekking. For most visitors, however, adventure travel in South Africa means safari travel, and the best-known safari area in the country is Eastern Transvaal, a continuous stretch of savanna extending for 400 miles along South Africa’s northeastern border. The Eastern Transvaal is home to Kruger National Park, undoubtedly one of the finest game reserves in all of Africa. In addition to the Kruger–and its surrounding private game reserves–visitors interested in safari travel in South Africa are also frequently drawn to Kalahari Gemsbok National Park. A narrow tongue of land extending northward into the vast expanse of the Kalahari Desert, Kalahari Gemsbok is an area of rugged beauty, with shifting dunes, wide-open vistas, and great herds of springbok and gemsbok.

Kruger National Park

Stretching over 350 miles from north to south, and teeming with wildlife, Kruger National Park is justly rated as one of the world’s finest game reserves. Kruger is home to more species of wildlife than any other game sanctuary on the continent, and is one of Africa’s few remaining havens for big cats. Well over a thousand lions, and large populations of leopard and cheetah, roam freely here, along with substantial numbers of elephant, zebra, rhino, giraffe, hippopotamus, impala, and kudu–more than enough to satisfy even the most shutter-happy photographer. Kruger is also–like South Africa as a whole–an outstanding destination for birdwatchers, offering a scarcely believable diversity and abundance of species.

Founded in 1898 by Paul Kruger, the park has over the last century been well tended and carefully developed. Unlike many reserves and sanctuaries, it is blessed with an outstanding road network, and in recent years its perimeter fencing has been substantially reduced, allowing greater migration ranges and increased wildlife populations. Stretching along the park’s western border are a number of private reserves, supplementing the land available to Kruger’s game and allowing greatly enhanced opportunities for safari visits. On the private reserves, visitors are permitted to travel on foot, in open vehicles, and to view wildlife at night, none of which activities are permitted within the park itself.

Kalahari Gemsbok National Park

More remote and rugged than Kruger, the Kalahari Gemsbok National Park is situated at the southern extremity of one of the world’s great desert regions–the Kalahari. Despite the relative absence of lush vegetation, the park abounds in wildife, including impressively large herds of springbok, gemsbok, eland, and wildebeest. Unsurprisingly, these herds also attract another expected visitor: the Kalahari lion. Visitors to the Kalahari may have to make do without the luxurious accommodations of the Kruger’s surrounding private reserves, but for the hardier traveller Kalahari Gemsbok can be a destination of unparalleled grandeur.

Canoeing the Orange River

The great Orange River originates in the Lesotho highlands, where it begins a long, meandering sweep westward across center of the country. By the time it reaches the Atlantic Ocean on the Namibian border, it has travelled 2,340 kilometers. Wide and gentle, with just enough rapids to get the heart beating, it is ideal for canoe safaris.

The most popular area for canoe safaris on the Orange River is the northwest, where the river wends through the sere realms of Bushmanland. The banks of the river, however, are typically lush — an oases ideal for viewing birds and game. Just beyond the river’s edge lurks a totally separate environment, a desert landscape with beautifully austere hills and mountains in the distance.

Camel Safaris

Though camel travel invariably brings to mind desert visions of Arabia, North Africa, and Asia, it is increasingly becoming a popular safari alternative in South Africa, which has more than its share of desert.

There are two unique desert environments ideal for camel safari’s in South Africa: the Kalahari and Bushmanland. While the Kalahari offers a more duned landscape, Bushmanland is semi-arid and pierced by the Orange River. Both regions are abundant in game.

Smaller Parks and Reserves

South Africa’s smaller parks and reserves are of undoubted interest, as many offeractivities and attractions unique to their particular region. In Natal in particular are a cluster of very fine smaller reserves, including Hluhluwe Umfolozi Park. Comprising a lovely territory of grassland, woodland, and forest, Hluhluwe Umfolozi possesses for its size a remarkable population of big game–including especially large numbers of rhino and nyala. Also in Natal are the parks of the Drakensberg Mountains, which offer unparalleled attractions for trekkers, climbers, and birdwatchers. Among the best are the Royal Natal National Park and the Natal Drakensberg Park. 

South Africa is one of the most geographically varied countries of the African continent, comprising territory that ranges from the rolling, fertile plains of the highveld and the wide open savanna of the Eastern Transvaal to the Kalahari desert and the peaks of the Drakensberg Mountains. While all of its diverse regions offer ample opportunities for adventure travel, the focus in South Africa–as in much of sub-Saharan Africa–is the safari. In addition to possessing two of the world’s most renowned wildlife reserves, the Kruger and the Kalahari Gemsbok National Parks, the country contains over a dozen smaller regional parks and reserves. In addition, with its excellent road and rail systems, its abundance of top-rated accommodations, and its bountiful farmlands and vineyards, South Africa allows visitors ample opportunity for more luxurious comfort along with adventuresome excitement.

Location, Geography, & Climate

South Africa is located, as one might expect, on the southern tip of Africa. It is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean on the west, the Indian Ocean on the south and east. Along its northern border, from west to east, lie Namibia, Botswana, and Zimbabwe, and to the northeast are Mozambique and Swaziland. Wholly-enclosed by South Africa, and situated in its eastern central plain, is the independent kingdom of Lesotho.

Almost all of South Africa’s 472,000 square miles (1.2 million sq. km.) lie below the Tropic of Capricorn, and the country is geographically composed of three primary regions: an expansive central plateau, a nearly continuous escarpment of mountain ranges that ring the plateau on the west, south, and east, and a narrow strip of low-lying land along the coast. Most of the central plateau (and most of the country) consists of high (4,000-6,000 ft/1,220-1,830 m), rolling grassland known as highveld. The highest points of the mountainous escarpment are found in the stunning Drakensberg (dragon’s back) Mountains, where the tips of dragon’s back can exceed heights of 10,000 ft (3,050 m).

In the northwest, South Africa’s Kalahari Gemsbok National Park, one of the continent’s largest game reserves, extends into the red sands and scrub grasslands of the great Kalahari Desert. In the northeast, the highveld plateau descends to the Bushveld and Limpopo River basins. The Bushveld comprises South Africa’s extensive savanna, in which is found the country’s marvelously rich and diverse game reserve, the world-renowned Kruger National Park.

Although South Africa’s climate varies considerably across its various regions and environments, temperatures remain comfortable throughout the year. The best time to visit for safari is between May to August, when there is less rain and much less dense vegetation, making animal sightings far more frequent.

History & People

South Africa’s population of forty million is three-quarters black (African) and about 15% white (European), with the remaining 10% comprised of people of mixed white, Malayan, and black descent and people of Asian (mostly Indian) descent. The African majority is composed of many different ethnic groups, the largest of which are Zulu, Xhosa, Tswana, and Bapedi. Until very recently, the country’s racial divisions were harshly enforced as part of the government’s official policy of Apartheid, or apartness. Although the government began to dismantle apartheid in 1989 after prolonged resistance, protest, and international economic sanctions, racial inequality remains pronounced in South Africa.

Adventure

South Africa is a very large and extraordinarily varied land, offering almost unlimited opportunities for adventure travel of all sorts–from diving and whitewater rafting to mountain-climbing and trekking. For most visitors, however, adventure travel in South Africa means safari travel, and the best-known safari area in the country is Eastern Transvaal, a continuous stretch of savanna extending for 400 miles along South Africa’s northeastern border. The Eastern Transvaal is home to Kruger National Park, undoubtedly one of the finest game reserves in all of Africa. In addition to the Kruger–and its surrounding private game reserves–visitors interested in safari travel in South Africa are also frequently drawn to Kalahari Gemsbok National Park. A narrow tongue of land extending northward into the vast expanse of the Kalahari Desert, Kalahari Gemsbok is an area of rugged beauty, with shifting dunes, wide-open vistas, and great herds of springbok and gemsbok.

Kruger National Park

Stretching over 350 miles from north to south, and teeming with wildlife, Kruger National Park is justly rated as one of the world’s finest game reserves. Kruger is home to more species of wildlife than any other game sanctuary on the continent, and is one of Africa’s few remaining havens for big cats. Well over a thousand lions, and large populations of leopard and cheetah, roam freely here, along with substantial numbers of elephant, zebra, rhino, giraffe, hippopotamus, impala, and kudu–more than enough to satisfy even the most shutter-happy photographer. Kruger is also–like South Africa as a whole–an outstanding destination for birdwatchers, offering a scarcely believable diversity and abundance of species.

Founded in 1898 by Paul Kruger, the park has over the last century been well tended and carefully developed. Unlike many reserves and sanctuaries, it is blessed with an outstanding road network, and in recent years its perimeter fencing has been substantially reduced, allowing greater migration ranges and increased wildlife populations. Stretching along the park’s western border are a number of private reserves, supplementing the land available to Kruger’s game and allowing greatly enhanced opportunities for safari visits. On the private reserves, visitors are permitted to travel on foot, in open vehicles, and to view wildlife at night, none of which activities are permitted within the park itself.

Kalahari Gemsbok National Park

More remote and rugged than Kruger, the Kalahari Gemsbok National Park is situated at the southern extremity of one of the world’s great desert regions–the Kalahari. Despite the relative absence of lush vegetation, the park abounds in wildife, including impressively large herds of springbok, gemsbok, eland, and wildebeest. Unsurprisingly, these herds also attract another expected visitor: the Kalahari lion. Visitors to the Kalahari may have to make do without the luxurious accommodations of the Kruger’s surrounding private reserves, but for the hardier traveller Kalahari Gemsbok can be a destination of unparalleled grandeur.

Canoeing the Orange River

The great Orange River originates in the Lesotho highlands, where it begins a long, meandering sweep westward across center of the country. By the time it reaches the Atlantic Ocean on the Namibian border, it has travelled 2,340 kilometers. Wide and gentle, with just enough rapids to get the heart beating, it is ideal for canoe safaris.

The most popular area for canoe safaris on the Orange River is the northwest, where the river wends through the sere realms of Bushmanland. The banks of the river, however, are typically lush — an oases ideal for viewing birds and game. Just beyond the river’s edge lurks a totally separate environment, a desert landscape with beautifully austere hills and mountains in the distance.

Camel Safaris

Though camel travel invariably brings to mind desert visions of Arabia, North Africa, and Asia, it is increasingly becoming a popular safari alternative in South Africa, which has more than its share of desert.

There are two unique desert environments ideal for camel safari’s in South Africa: the Kalahari and Bushmanland. While the Kalahari offers a more duned landscape, Bushmanland is semi-arid and pierced by the Orange River. Both regions are abundant in game.

Smaller Parks and Reserves

South Africa’s smaller parks and reserves are of undoubted interest, as many offeractivities and attractions unique to their particular region. In Natal in particular are a cluster of very fine smaller reserves, including Hluhluwe Umfolozi Park. Comprising a lovely territory of grassland, woodland, and forest, Hluhluwe Umfolozi possesses for its size a remarkable population of big game–including especially large numbers of rhino and nyala. Also in Natal are the parks of the Drakensberg Mountains, which offer unparalleled attractions for trekkers, climbers, and birdwatchers. Among the best are the Royal Natal National Park and the Natal Drakensberg Park.

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Exploring Botswana

Botswana is one of the few remaining destinations in Africa that still provides a good sense of the adventure of safari. Its expansive game parks and preserves, while offering wildlife as diverse and abundant as that found anywhere else, are still largely undeveloped and untamed.

Location, Geography & Climate

Botswana lies immediately to the north of South Africa. It is bordered on the north and west by Namibia, on the north and east by Zimbabwe, and is connected by a narrow strip of land on the northern border to Zambia. Its territory consists almost entirely of a broad, flat, arid subtropical plateau, though there are hills in the eastern part of the country.

In the northwest, the Okavango River empties into the Kalahari sands, creating the largest inland river delta in the world. While the Okavango Delta is home to relatively few large game animals in comparison to other areas of Botswana, its clear waters and myriad small islands are home to an astounding variety of birds, plants, and smaller species of animals.

Nearby is Chobe National Park, a beautiful grassland reserve that has gained international fame for its abundant elephant population. Southeast of Chobe are Botswana’s enormous Makgadikgadi salt pans, home to large herds of blue wildebeest, several antelope species, and those international lovers of salt pans, flamingos.

Almost the entire remaining portion of the country is covered by the Kalahari Desert–a varied environment of sand, savanna, and grassland. Although this area of Botswana is only sparsely inhabited by humans, it is one of the richest wildlife regions in all of Africa.

Botswana’s two largest parks, the Central Kalahari Game reserve and Gemsbok National Park, are found in this region.

Botswana’s climate can get rather cool, particularly during the dry winter months of June-August when night occasionally brings frost. The rainy summer months (December through March) are best avoided for those interested in enjoying the best game viewing conditions.

Okavango Delta

This extensive inland river delta is one of the most pleasurable sites on the continent for safari. Travel is typically by small boats or even dugout canoe, providing a level of tranquility that is difficult to attain in a landrover. Okavango is home to elephant, zebra, giraffe, and other large game species, but the park’s true strength is in its abundance of birds, plant life, and sheer poetic beauty. Hippos and crocodiles are quite common in Okavango, as one might expect. The fishing is also excellent, particularly in the northwestern section.

Moremi Wildlife Reserve

Located in the northeastern portion of the Okavango Delta, Moremi combines the attractions of the delta with more solid terrain. The result is an outstanding reserve that includes a wide variety of ecosystems and a commensurate diversity of wildlife.

Chobe National Park

Chobe is Botswana’s best big game park. Located conveniently to Victoria Falls, it covers an area of over 4000 sq. miles (10,000 sq. km) and is positively packed with creatures. Chobe is especially well-known for its immense elephant population (over 70,000), and it is not uncommon to encounter herds in excess of a hundred. The park’s north and northwest border is marked by the Chobe River, and the river’s popularity as a water source has made game viewing by boat a particular attraction.

History & People

The aboriginal inhabitants of Botswana, who have made the Kalahari their home for at least 30,000 years, are the San, or bushmen. The San number about 60,000 today, constituting a small but fascinating cultural minority in the country. Almost two millennia ago, a Bantu people known as the Tswana arrived, supplanting the San and now constituting the great majority of the population.

The discovery of gold in Botswana in the late 19th century attracted the interest of the Boers, leading the fiercely independent but desperate Tswana nations to petition the British for protection.

Botswana was granted protectorate status (as Bechuanaland) in 1885, though local authority was maintained with determination by the Tswana chiefs. In 1966, in the same wave of change that brought independence to much of the continent, Bechuanaland became the independent Republic of Botswana.

The very next year, the discovery of enormous diamond reserves in Botswana transformed the poor country’s economic prospects. Today it enjoys one of the highest economic growth rates of any country in the world, although its national wealth has not solved the problem of widespread unemployment.

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Exploring Namibia

Namibia is a technicolor dreamscape, a land of swirling apricot dunes and shimmering white flats, mirages and dust devils, black-faced impala and crimson-breasted shrike. Its major game park, which centers on the Great Etosha Pan, offers an exceptional range and abundance of wildlife and a landscape that could not provide a more striking backdrop for it. The coastal region is one of the world’s most captivating desert regions, and in the south lies a canyon second in magnificence only to the Grand Canyon itself.

Location, Geography, Climate

Namibia has four primary geographic regions, all of which are of great interest to the adventure traveller. In the north lies the Etosha Pan, an enormous alluvial basin that has long since lost the lake that it once held. Although water supplies are now limited for most of the year to the perimeter of the pan, the area remains sufficiently fertile to support great herds of antelope species (including gemsbok, impala, and springbok), zebra, and–most famously–elephants. Many other species of wildlife abound as well, and the Etosha Pan is now the center of one of the finest game parks on the African continent.

Along the Namibian coast lies the Namib Desert, a spectacularly barren, brilliant red sand landscape that is divided into the Skeleton Coast (in the north) and the Diamond Coast (in the south). There are a number of features of this coastal desert that make it quite unlike any spot on earth. First, and most famously, it is the richest source of diamonds on the planet, and Namibia is as a result the world’s largest diamond producer. Second, the dry and hot Namibian shoreline is situated right at the point where the icy waters of the Atlantic hit the continent–Antarctic water meets African desert, and the result is often unbelievable fog. This highly mysterious coast is now the site of the 19,000 sq. mile (49,000 sq. km) Namib-Naukluft National Park, a

In the northeast, Namibian territory extends between Angola and Botswana along the slender corridor of the Caprivi Strip. Unlike most of the rest of Namibia, the Caprivi Strip is a wooded and fertile region, and it is crossed by a number of rivers. Two of these, the Zambezi and the Okavango, rank among the great rivers of Africa. The strip is also the site of several game parks, which while not offering such an abundance of wildife certainly provide spectacular scenery and relative solitude.

Namibia’s center is occupied by a high escarpment plain. Windhoek, the capital and the only city of any size, is located smack dab in the middle of the country. In the northern part of the central plain is the Waterberg Plateau, a 150 sq. mi. (400 sq. km) shelf that rises 150 metres straight from the surrounding plain. The plateau is well-watered and lush, and is home to several rare and endangered species. At Namibia’s southern tip is yet another geological wonder–the immense Fish River Canyon. Second only to the Grand Canyon in size, Fish River Canyon offers magnificent vistas and great–though strenuous–hiking.

Daytime heat, rather than rain, is the primary concern for most travellers to Namibia. While temperatures are generally comfortable year round, the warmest season is the period extending from November to March.

History & People

Namibia is populated by few people, but those few constitute an unusually diverse set of peoples and cultures. The country’s predominant (85%) black population is composed of several different ethnic groups, including the San, the Khoi-Khoi, the Herero, and the Ovambo. The small European population is composed of Germans and Afrikaners, and there is also a significant Asian minority. The great majority of Namibia’s 1.5 million people live in the north, where there the climate is less arid and generally more hospitable.

The history of habitation in Namibia begins with the San, who were living there at least two thousand years ago. As a nation, however, Namibia is relatively young, having gained its independence after prolonged struggles only in march of 1990. The country was largely spared the attentions of the European powers until the end of the nineteenth century, when it came under the control of Germany. In 1920 the territory was awarded by the League of Nations to South Africa, which resisted Namibian independence for decades as a result of the area’s enormous mineral wealth. Although the UN voted to end South African control in 1966, widespread regional warfare prevented the establishment of an independent government for almost two decades.

Namibia’s many parks and game reserves are of two basic types. Some, such as well-known Etosha National Park, are like most southern African parks focused primarily on wildlife. Others, including the coastal parks and Fish River Canyon, are are spectacular wilderness areas, where the beauty of the scenery easily upstages the game. The descriptions that follow are for only a selected few of Namibia’s many fine parks.

Etosha National Park

Etosha is Namibia’s premier big game park, comparable in size and diversity of species to any other reserve on the continent. It is especially renowned for its abundant population of elephants, though in fact it contains sizeable populations of an enormous variety of species. Many different antelope species, including gemsbok, impala, dik-dik, springbok, eland, kudu, and duiker, are here, as are wildebeest, hartebeest, and zebra. Lion, leopard, and cheetah are also found in Etosha, and giraffe and rhino as well.

What draws all of these creatures to Etosha is water. At the center of Etosha Park is the enormous shallow bowl of the Etosha Pan, a depression that was once a lakebed. Although the pan does fill with water during periods of unusually heavy rainfall, the watersource on which the wildlife depend is a series of underground springs that dot the pan’s perimeter. If you visit between May and September, when the pan is quite dry, the temperature cool, and the wildlife thirsty, the contrast between the barren landscape and the concentration of animals can be stunning.

The Parks and Reserves of the Caprivi Strip

The narrow corridor of the Caprivi Strip is the locale of several smaller parks and game reserves. The attraction of these parks is that they permit open-vehicle drives as well as walking, but the tragedy is that their wildlife populations have suffered enormously from poaching. Recovery does seem to be proceeding rapidly, but at present the appeal of the Caprivi parks really rests upon the fact that they are both uncrowded and open to intimate exploration on foot or by boat.

Fish River Canyon

Only the Grand Canyon is larger. Fish River Canyon extends for one hundred miles (160 km) north to south along the Orange River in southern Namibia. It reaches widths of 17 miles (27 km) and depths of 1800 feet (550 m). The vistas offered from various points along the rim are, as one might expect, simply incredible. However, for those who are sufficiently interested, and sufficiently fit, there is a terrific 4-5 day, 53 mile (86 km) trek along the canyon floor.

The Coast and the Namib

The Namib Desert stretches for eight hundred miles (1300 km) along the African coastline and is undoubtedly one of the world’s most spectacularly barren and mysterious environments. In Namibia, two large parks encompass much of the Namib: Skeleton Coast Park, in the north, and Namib-Naukluft National Park, in the south.

Skeleton Coast Park

The name is no mere metaphor. This coast is a graveyard for ill-fated seafarers and inattentive whales, and the dense fogs that frequently arise here shroud shipwrecks and bones as well as the surreal dunes of the Namib. The primary wildlife attraction of the Skeleton Coast is Cape Frio, which harbours a seal colony numbering in the tens of thousands. However, the wildlife here pales in comparison to the land itself, and the most popular adventure travel activity here is trekking along the coast.

Namib-Naukluft National Park

Namibia’s southern coastal park is enormous, measuring almost 20,000 sq. miles (50,000 sq. km.) and encompassing a wide variety of different desert environments. The most dramatically beautiful of these is the Sossusvlei region, where one encounters massive, apricot-orange sand dunes that are higher than any in the world. Other areas of Namib-Naukluft worth mentioning are the starkly beautiful Naukluft Mountains, a favored trekking destination, and the intimate Sesriem Canyon.

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