Wicked Campers Africa Blog

Vacation in South Africa!

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Just came back…
Im a bit vacation sick, as in the opposite of home sick where I’m wondering what I’m doing here except from having lots of bills to pay and houses to move… Vacation is mean, parallel reality we all wish we could live in. At least I still have some wonderful video footage of South Africa that I think will make awesome VJ clips. Luckily Amsterdam is also a wonderful place to be, Spring is in the air and Queensday coming up
So I just came home after a wonderful stay in South Africa, where I went to look up Cleverson who had been traveling in East Africa for a few months already. Im trying to write down al the great places we’ve seen, things we did people we met, before I forget.

Getting started…
I landed in Johannesburg, or Jo’burg as the locals call it, the first thing I noticed was that it was a very modern airport, maybe I expected it to be more chaotic or poor, but it was a very easy going airport. The people working there seemed very happy and funny, where in Holland people tend to take their jobs a bit too serious sometimes.
Clever was waiting for me already, super tanned and wearing a colorful Tanzania football T-shirt, I hardly recognized him We were sooo happy to see each other after such a long time, finally! We went looking for a place to stay, found this hostel Gemini that would pick us up from the airport. Waited like half a day and finally this black guy called Jan (typical dutch name) came to pick us up. The hostel consisted of lots of little houses that where still being constructed, there was a big palm-three growing throughout their kitchen and a swimming pool/pond. Some other travelers where there but we kept a bit to ourselves for some reason…tired yeah that was it
The next day we had the interesting mission to try and rent a car without a credit card ( I had forgotten mine and Clever didn’t bring his either). Since we had little time and lots of places we wanted to see, we figured a car would really be best. Clever had seen a  Wicked Campers add and liked their style so we asked if it was possible and it was, yeah! Somehow it took almost all day to arrange everything, once we got the car, we went to buy a tom-tom & groceries, had lunch in a Portuguese restaurant and we were on our way!

Heading to the East: Krugerpark > Swaziland > Sodwana
Since our original plan was to meet in Tanzania and learn diving, we still had this ambition and headed towards Sodwana bay, one of the most beautiful coral reefs in the world. On our way we figured to stop at KrugerPark and saw some Elephants, giraffes, Zebra’s, buffalo’s, all sorts of birds, springboks and lots of Impala’s. We spend the first night in our car somewhere near Kruger as it was dark and to late to find a place to stay. We woke up in front of a lemon plantation, making our tea while the first  workers arrived in the morning, quite surprised to see us. We waved friendly at each other as it said in the instructions of the car-manual (to wave and smile at people you pass as they usually wave back, they do in Africa). We got an early start, because the roads are really dark in Africa at night, (you can really see the whole Milky Way) and also you tend to go sleep and wake up early. This was a good thing as it was almost easter weekend, the parks could get pretty crowded and they only allow so many visitors a day. Although we didn’t get to see a lion and I didn’t like the fact that we had to stay in the car all the time, Kruger was beautiful. At the end of the day we drove down to Nelspruit and went to this funny sounding Backpackers place called, Funky Monkey! It was a very big place, looking good and nice people there. We met some Spanish travelers Ana & Idan they where heading to Mozambique and gave us their road map, which we would find very useful later on We gave them a ride to the station and went on our way towards the coast. First we’d have to pass through Swaziland a country within SA, some very funny people at the border, were impressed with our car, let us cross and then I took over the wheel and found that the brand new road of SA where no longer there and it was a pothole road for some time. Very slowly we bumbled up and down the hills and just when I started to regret going through Swazi (Lonely planet said something bout excellent roads ?!) things improved and I was driving smoothly on the left side of the road for the first time. Occasionally using my windshield wipers instead of my indicators. We arrived in the evening at the Mlilwane place, they only allowed tents not campers an they send us to the campsite. The next day it was beautiful weather and we went hiking in the hope to see some Hippo’s but they where not around. We did have some Zebra’s galloping very fast towards us on the hiking road which was exciting. Also we saw some big lazy alligators lying by the side of the water. Around noon (after soaking in a deserted mineral pool) we head towards the coast again. Still along drive, we stopped before the border of Swazi for a coffee and a late lunch at this fancy resort, where they had some giraffes just hanging around.
We drove almost down to the beach to wake up the next morning and beat the traffic into Sodwana (at seven in the morning we were queuing to get in, because of the easter weekend).
We found the Coral diving school and checked out the program, we could start right away and roll into the classroom or take it easy do some reading and really start tomorrow. We decided to take it easy and go to the beach, it was very crowded, people snorkeling but between the tide, rocks and lots of people it wasn’t that comfortable. Just being on the beach in the sun felt really good for me coming out of a long winter in Holland.
We met our teacher Jarret, super friendly guy, we went through the first chapter of the book quick and had some reading to do. For some reason I could not keep my eyes open very long and fell asleep with my nose in the book. The next day was like crash course in diving, just me en Clever with our teacher in the classroom, it was very funny to go to school with Clever in the afternoon we did exercises in the pool. Floating was my specialty but for Clever is was somewhat of a struggle, all those muscles hé….
Breathing underwater seemed a bit scary at first, not knowing if I would feel comfortable with the air from the tank. I went down to fast the first time, not knowing I had to equalize as much as I needed and I hurt my ears allot. Well, learned my lesson for the next time. More reading and book pillows that night.
The next day was the day we would go in the sea, I was so excited, first we checked the gear and had to get this wet suite thing on and of we went with a little boat. Jumped in and started to descend down the line, it really took us for ever to get down, but the first couple of meters are so hard on you ears, man! Once I got through the first meters it got easier and I was really happy to finally get down there. You feel like your floating, flying above the coral, passing through fish, so many of them and such beautiful colors, I was in heaven!
We really got into it and stayed at least half and hour swimming and exploring the corals. It was the longest first time dive ever for our instructor. We came back on the land and changed tanks to straight away go again. Going down this time went allot faster and once down we had to do some exercises. Taking of the goggles underwater and putting them back on. Only the sea water really burns my eyes and couldn’t see as well after. I was fooling around with the mask, blowing out lots of air to try and clear all the water out and without noticing I ascended to much. Tried to go down again but my ears didn’t agree with it, luckily there was this really big school of big fish I could swim through which was amazing too. On the way back we met this very friendly guy Gregg and later on his daughter(s).
He was a diving fanatic and was thrilled to hear our first time enthusiasm. He told us about shark diving. That sharks are very fascinating and how they sense things through their nose, so if it seems like they want to bite the cage, they are infact sniffing it with there nose and trying to figure out what these electromagnets around the cage are. I was in for it. I think I starting to get kicks from doing scary stuff and facing my fears. Or maybe it was a way to change the subject of Bumpy-jumping or Sky-diving that Clever keeps suggesting. I the evening the friendly Gregg started giving us tips on places to go and soon we found ourselves around the table while Gregg drew maps for us or he was drawing on our map circling interesting places to go see. His daughters loved his knowledge and giggled about their super dad. Wow really allot of places! Enough to stay here two more months instead of two weeks. We were determined to see what we could: peddle to the metal!!!
This is a short interruption where I have to say how crazy I’m about my baby!
Everything is so much bigger underwater and I loved seeing the little bubbles stuck in his beard under water.

Drakensbergmountains,
We drove down the coast and then up again into the mountains. The sun was setting and the foggy hills reminded me of England. First we went to the Highmoor in the Drakensberg mountains. It was raining and the tar road all of a sudden became a slippery mud road.Luckely there was a backpackers place called Dragonfly that we could stay the night at. Their cottage was very beautiful and it so reminded me of the British country side.  We camped in the yard and cooked some nice food in the kitchen with them and ate while some wild politics were going on, on tv.
Black journalists interviewing a white conservative rasist was bound to go wrong.
You almost never see people in politics get physical at each other in Holland, well then again, who knows…
O and did I mention the puppy? it was so cute, I loved all their pets!!!

Highmoor was next to Giant Castle, the girl videographer at Coral Divers tipped us to go there.
Nice mountains and we went to see rock paintings. Then we hiked back along the river and had lunch with the baboons. In the afternoon we drove up north to this Backpackers place called Karma. Really sweet woman running it, magnificent garden and awesome mosaics everywhere. We sorta dropped in during dinner, lovely kitchen with so many jammmmmsss and marmalades. So wonderful, she made them with fruit from her organic orchard. We bought 5 pots the next day and found out that ants in africa have their ways of getting into jars and love jam too. Some pots would have to been eaten quick, but that was no problem. The sweet and spicy, ginger-tomato one is amazing!
We had a full hiking day at the Amphitheatre mountains, in the North and we went up the chain-ladders to see the Tugela waterfall. Really beautiful views and scary ladders. It was a long walk tho, cause we walked on top of the mountain in search for some alternative route back that we never found. The views where way more impressive then Giant Castle so we where happy to see both.

Going down to the Sunshine coast, Shark diving Garden Route.
In the evening we started driving again. Between the tom tom and four different handdrawn maps I managed to lose the way and we drove a little circle so got a late start.
Also we drove through this great park, but is was dark, and I was wondering if it wasn’t better to stay another night at the Karma place. The next nice hostel (we wanted to go to the OwlHouse) was a pretty long drive away still so we camped somewhere along the way that night. The next day we took the smaller roads down to the coast on our way towards Port Elizabeth. The roads were so quiet and only space and mountains around to dream away in. We wanted to do the Sunshine coast and Garden route,  and made a stop at Jeffreys Bay, a beach with lots of shells and surfers.
Then headed for a hostel called DJEMBE backpackers which sounded funny.
The town Stormriver was basically a gathering of guesthouses, hotels and hostels. Felt a bit like disneyland for grownups. We where in desperate need for internet cause everywhere we came somehow it would be down. And it happened to be down here to, but there was free internet in the hotel down the street and the atmosphere was more chill then in the other places so we stayed the night. Met the funny owner who happened to be home, he build most of the place himself and it was quite creative.
Never staying anywhere long, we left early to do the Garden Route, stopped at Tsitsikamma National Park which was beautiful.
I wasn’t feeling to great for some reason, so we didn’t stay to long, pity cause there was another hike up the mountain some fox on the way tipped us to see.
While driving down the N2 I dozed off dreaming away in the beautiful views, all of a sudden Cleverson wakes me up because he found a organic market that was selling cheese and he turns around for me, I love this guy. (Timberlake Organic Village, on N2 halfway between Sedgefield and Wilderness)
After getting our cheese fix (the Prince Albert one was delicious), some none alcoholic wine and a taste of a local port, we continued driving.Saw another fun hippy like shop and this big playground for kids we stopped at. They had great cheese cake there and all sorts of goodies in the shop. Being ambitious we decided to do the shark diving on our way to Cape town, since it was on route.
We called for reservations, found a good deal in the coast to coast book, including accommodation for a better price then the other ones.
So we drove all evening to get to Gansbaai and would have to wake up very early in the morning to see the sharks.
Getting up early is not my favorite but to see the sharks was amazing. Also very uncomfortable, to jump in this cage and have to go down when they tell you to and come up by pulling yourself out with these bars, there weren’t to many bars and I was struggling to get air sometimes, while filming and looking at the sharkes at the same time. I was a bit disappointed that they wouldn’t let you snorkel. The other place we called also just let you plunge in the cage as opposed to diving.
So why they call it Shark Diving then?
Eventho I was freezing  and my knees where all bruised, it was very impressive and I made some great video to!
It was still morning when we left Gansbaai, drove a bit and I wanted to do some sunbathing before going to the city. We stopped near Hermanus and just relaxed at the beach. I’ve hardly been sun bathing cause Clever doesn’t like it and had to grab this chance.
Also practice some acrobatics in the sand while Clever enjoyed the shade and his magazine.
Later we made a stop at the gas-station and had to brake for some other car there when Clever noticed the brake wasn’t really working.
Luckily we where going super slow and the other guy could brake on time, thinking we we’re assholes probably. But no, one of our brakes was leaking and luckily we found out this way. Calling net-care was a drama, off course the battery of our phone gave up, the Kenyan charger didn’t help and no one at the gas-station happened to have a charger. Luckily this friendly lady working there borrow us her mobile, so we could call net-care and have them call us back. They were based in Botswana which made the calls expensive, they supposed to cover in South Africa only the connection was so bad I could hardly understand the lady on the phone. After a few calls, running out of credit, I managed to give her my number, but then she couldn’t call back for some reason, which sucked a bit. The friendly lady with the mobile told us where the nearest garage was and we headed down there, driving ridiculously slow on the side of the road. Cleverson is becoming an expect in driving without brakes, even in mountains and even with an automatic, he can drive anything.
The address of the garage on the card was so new that the place wasn’t there yet, driving slowly without brakes we saw some trucks at the end of the road. So we actually found the temporary location of the garage by accident. This guy working there was super friendly and asked if we wanted the quick fix, or slow fix?
Quick-fix: He told us he could close the leaking break and add break-fluid so the others would work again. They had this old school ramp to drive the car onto, so you could stand under the car which was kinda cool. The car mechanic was very interested in us, we chatted a bit and he thought we were a very interesting couple. Clever told him about his old timers and the mechanic showed us this amazing old timer Pick Up truck with a working V8 motor growing grass in the back. He said it was for sale. If we lived in Africa it would be wonderful, but in Amsterdam you’d need tree parking places for it I told him. I think he like us, cause he didn’t want to charge so we gave him a bottle of Amarula and cold juice instead. We still could make it to Cape town before the evening.

Capetown and back!
We stayed at a hostel the first night cause I couldn’t find the number of my friend in Cape and needed internet for that.
The hostel was in the Observatory area, called Riverlodge Backpackers. Really big old building, looked like a school but used to be a nuthouse.
Inside was very big and it felt a bit like a living community: there where some people actually living there and some studio’s for artist around other parts of the building. The next morning it was foggy so we didn’t do the Cable car thing, just drove down to the centre and walked around the market place, some touristy streets and off course I wanted to go see the museum. There was a great contemporary art expo with everything from painting, print, sculptures or installations going on, something for everyone. I believe it was the Spears expo? Very impressive building and art works.
We we’re looking for a park to have a pick-nick but then we stumbled upon this bakery that was just crazy and we had to stay and eat cake!
I got in touch with my friends Jacques and Stella living in Cape Town and we were able to stay with them for a few days. It was amazing how friendly and hospitable they were, since we hardly knew them. Found out Jacques was also a filmmaker, I met him through a friend actually two different friends.
It’s always better to meet people that really live somewhere so you can get an idea of what living in South Africa would be like as opposed to feeling like a tourist all the time.
It seems like a wonderful place to live on the outside, but in reality there’s lots of corruption and insecurity going on.

Due to our tight schedule we only had time for the basic must see spots and a little hike with Jacques around the Botanical Gardens.
We drove to Cape Point, thinking it was just a little drive, but it was somewhat more dayfilling then we thought.
We stay a few nights and cooked lovely dinners with our new friends, the days flew by and it was time to go back already.
Heard about the volcano in Island and it’s Ash-clouds that apparently where seriously hindering air traffic in Northern Europe.
The idea of staying in Cape a little longer was tempting, but we had to return the car and I had to get home to work…
So of we went again and started driving very early in the morning, one big drive to Jo’burg. Which was about 1400 km (or kilo’s in Afrikaans)
A bit optimistic to think we would arrive at 10 in the evening in Jo’burg, with all the construction on the road happening, no way! We got some fast dinner in Bloemfontein, I wanted to go to some Jazz restaurant but it was hidden away or just not there. Camped somewhere 150 k’s south of Jo’burg, our last night in the Beany car, boohoo!
We had met a girl that worked at the Diamond diggers hostel and she said we should visit them. It happened to be in the same street as where we had to return the car which was good. We still had to see the apartheid museum, I had already been reading to Clever in the car about the South African history from the Lonely Planet during the long drive back. The radio was really bad outside the cities and we could definably use a refresh course. Yet there was allot more history then I can take in.
I loved the expo on Nelson Mandela, I thought after two rooms that was it but had no idea how much it was, it just went on and on and on.
We got hungry and went back to the hostel. Took care of the car, next day I’d be flying back. When I called the airlines they said my flight to Istanbul was on but from there, no flights to Amsterdam. So at the last moment I had to do the impossible and explain this complicated video installation setup to a colleague back home so they could take it over from me. I was sad my vacation was over already and then I was sad that I couldn’t make it home on time to do the gig.
So sad that I had to take another vacation in Istanbul. Cleverson had plans to go to Madagascar so once again we said goodbye, this time should go faster